Today In Black LGBTQ+ History: André Leon Talley
TODAY IN BLACK LGBTQ+ HISTORY, we celebrate André Leon Talley, who was an American fashion journalist, stylist, creative director, and editor-at-large of Vogue magazine. He was the magazine's fashion news director from 1983 to 1987, its first African-American male creative director from 1988 to 1995, and then its editor-at-large from 1998 to 2013. Take a look at moments throughout his tenure in the fashion industry.
Talley's career as a fashion journalist spanned six decades, earning him respect and acclaim within the fashion industry. Thus, he has often been regarded by many as a fashion icon. His image has become synonymous with the capes, robes and kaftans he often wore, becoming his signature fashion items. Many of these long flowing vestments were custom-made for him by his famous designer friends including Tom Ford, Karl Lagerfeld, Ralph Rucci, Valentino, and Dapper Dan. Time referred to him as an "influential fashion journalist", while stating "At 6-feet-6 inches tall, Talley cut an imposing figure wherever he went, with his stature, his considerable influence on the fashion world, and his bold looks. In the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada, the character Nigel Kipling portrayed by Stanley Tucci is widely regarded as a depiction of Talley.
Talley often advocated for diversity during his tenure at Vogue and within in the fashion industry. "He also was very involved in fighting for more diversity on the runway, for more Black models", New York Fashion Week creator Fern Mallis said. "Mostly on the runway it started, and then certainly that became a movement about in every aspect of the industry".
He also helped advance the careers of nonwhite designers, including LaQuan Smith, whom he mentored, and styled American tennis player Serena Williams in his designs; while also introducing Michelle Obama to Taiwanese-Canadian designer Jason Wu, who crafted her dress for the 2009 inauguration. According to Tatler Asia, "Talley was responsible for including more Japanese designers in the pages of Vogue in the '90s, especially after witnessing the boom of debuts he saw in Paris", pushing for designers like Comme des Garçons and Issey Miyake to be featured in the magazine. Furthermore, he has mentored supermodel Naomi Campbell, and photographer Dario Calmese; often advising them and helping them further establish their careers.
He was also instrumental in reigniting the career of John Galliano, with The Cut stating, "In 1994, John Galliano was a man on the brink. The designer had lost his backer and was living in squalor in Paris. Galliano was lucky enough to have a support system that quickly mobilized — editors (notably Anna Wintour), models, accessory designers, and some generous benefactors worked together to make sure Galliano stayed on the fashion calendar. The show that resulted is still talked about as a watershed in his career. André Leon Talley was instrumental in helping to get the designer back on his feet — not only did he connect Galliano with a new backer and arrange to show at São Schlumberger's home, he recalls that he did everything from going on McDonald's runs for the staff and serving as an usher at the show". American designer Rick Owens, credits Talley with helping him launch his career in the fashion industry after being introduced by Talley to Anna Wintour.
